Hamra cultural hub Dar Bistro & Books closes

BEIRUT: As Alley 83 off Roma Street in Hamra grows silent soon, perhaps the faint sound of laughter, clinking glasses, and laptop keyboards may magically drift out into the evening some summer's night, as walkers rush home before the curfew.

Pausing, a few select persons passing by will smile in the memory of happy times at the nearby Dar Bistro - a book party, poetry reading, a memorable Mesa, or an Oud performance - and hope they might meet again the friends and like-minds they encountered there, though who knows where or when.

When Dar Bistro & Books first opened in November of 2011, the economy of Lebanon was beginning to lose steam after a number of boom years. But Lebanon and the Lebanese are nothing if not resilient - somewhat like the boxer who just won't stay down after a punch - and Dar was a synergistic small enterprise reflective of this, and worked its way into quick popularity after opening. It was a place where the stars aligned.

Situated in an artfully renovated traditional Lebanese house from before the war, strewn with jasmine and bougainvillea vines, Dar always was an establishment with an appeal for culturati and foodies alike - including locals, students, and expats.

Strolling down its shady alleyway toward the street level veranda decked with colorful chairs and tables and then toward the indoors dining room, one found throughout: romantic couples, festive dining parties, along with writers, poets and performers, on any given afternoon or evening. The venue always offered muted charm, good service, hip staff and an eclectic Bohemian clientele.

Behind the well-stocked bar, down a hallway toward the kitchen is a small bookstore, with an excellent cross selection of current fiction, histories, biographies and art books, along with a magazine collection that ran from the Economist and Wired magazines to such avant-garde innovative Beirut magazines as The Outpost.

Upstairs, through a stairway lined with classic Arabic movie posters, is the photo atelier of longtime Lebanese news photographer Ramzi Haidar, who started his career during the Civil War and after several decades in the news profession transitioned to initiatives teaching photography to local students along with Palestinian and Syrian refugee children in order for  them to record their own reality of the world.

His was news photography were many, but one of the most memorable in terms of the unexpected was a militiaman playing a piano during a break in the fighting, in 1983, made more so unforgettable as Haidar was badly wounded moments later.

Haidar with nearby soldiers, including the piano player barely survived as was transported to the hospital.

Moving back to the present day, on the second floor of Dar Bistro is a gallery space for photography, art, book parties, and readings.

However, like similar such businesses – restaurants, independent bookstores, cultural spaces and hangouts – Dar threw in the towel after fighting the good fight and announced last weekend its closure.

“It is with a heavy heart that we are sharing the news that Dar is closing its doors. This has been an extraordinarily difficult decision made after much deliberation, calculation and soul searching. We really did our best, but during these tough times, in the era of economic uncertainties and social distancing, we had to consider how to reconcile that with a space created to bring people together,” a note Sunday on the bistro’s website read.

“Dar could not have been what it became had it not been for your faith and role in it. Dar belongs to us all. It’s about more than just good food. Dar embodies love, friendship, creativity and inclusivity. It is a place where truly everyone is welcome,” it said, adding: “ While endings are difficult, they come with new beginnings and silver linings. While we might not be in this same place at this time, our journey is not over. Till we meet again.”

Najwa Shaaban, an avid frequenter of Dar, told Annahar she has a page in her journal on which she writes about coffee shops she discovers, so she visited Dar Bistro & Books upon a friend’s recommendation who told her that Dar “captures the Hamra spirit”.

“I went there the first time on my own and I just sat there with my book and a cup of coffee. My love for the place made me recommend it to everyone.”

Shaaban recounted that Dar was the shelter for endless talks and enjoyable breakfasts with her friends whenever they ran away from class.

“Dar Bistro gives you a feeling of beauty that we want so badly to associate with Beirut even when it’s not there. I will now go walk in the streets of Hamra, but one of my favorite places won’t be there,” she noted.

Mohamad Ghazal heard about Dar through his friends who constantly hang out there and “always mentioned how cozy it is, so going there was inevitable.”

“The closure news hit me hard, because I know that Dar Bistro is only the first in line. I’m now worried that none of my favorite places will survive the current economic crisis.”

Wael Taleb thinks that the news about the shutdown “makes you grasp how much this economic collapse will change the city's dynamic, as well as how big the crisis is because Dar used to be a very busy place.”

“It’s one of the best places to hangout in Hamra,” Taleb said. “....the memories there stick, I always have tea there. The waiter once gave me his lighter to keep. The concept of a Dar (a home for gathering) with plans and a village feel in the middle of a city is ....unique.”

Amid floods of goodbyes by fans of Dar, one Facebook citizen thanked Dar for all the beautiful memories. “I will miss your jasmine trees, your small lovely bookstore, the beautiful mornings I spent there listening to Fairuz songs, reading a book or just having a conversation with friends!”